Taking a deep breath of the spring-scented air while sipping genuine imperial tea is an experience you can only get in Zhejiang Province's Longjing Village, in eastern China.
As one of the most prized and expensive teas in the country, Dragon Well tea has a light, unmistakable fragrance and a calming taste.
Longjing tea is first referenced in the history books some 1,000 years ago. The earliest record of the tea was found in a book called Cha Jing, the first known book about tea in the world. The book was written by Lu Yu, a tea expert known as "the Sage of Tea" in China.
Longjing tea wasn't given its name until the Southern Song Dynasty. Tea production developed in the once capital of China, Hangzhou, from where knowledge of this particular kind of tea began to spread nationwide. By the time of the Yuan and Ming dynasties, it was well known all over China.
By the Qing dynasty, Longjing tea was famous. Legend has it that the Qing Emperor, Qianlong, made several trips to the place where Longjing tea was grown; and the fragrant leaves fascinated him so much that he named the 18 tea trees in front of the Hugong Temple "Royal Tea." Since then, the tea has only increased in popularity.
Authentic Longjing tea still comes from Zhejiang, with the finest varieties grown at the villages and plantations in the West Lake area of Hangzhou. But there are other kinds of the tea that come from different parts of Zhejiang. Yu Jizhong, an expert from the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences' Tea Research Institute, explains.
"Traditionally, Longjing tea was only produced in the West Lake area of Hangzhou. Nowadays, many of the Longjing teas are actually grown in areas away from there; these are known as Qiantang Longjing. Apart from that, there are also Longjing teas coming from Shaoxing, a city 60 kilometers southeast of Hangzhou. Those Longjing teas are known as Yuezhou Longjing. "
The best known Longjing tea grows near the famous West Lake and is named after the famous water - Xihu.
Over the past decade, the price of the tea has skyrocketed. Xihu Longjing can be very expensive. It is auctioned every year at prices higher than those paid for gold. In 2005, 100 grams of the tea sold for 144,000 yuan, or about 20,000 U.S. dollars, at an auction in Hangzhou. As Yu Jizhong explains, there are reasons why Xihu Longjing tea is becoming even more popular with people.
"The West Lake Longjing is grown in a 170-square-kilometer area of tea bushes near West Lake. Surrounded by mountains on three sides, the tea field has the best weather and soil conditions for growing tea. Apart from that, the old tea trees grown in the West Lake area are believed to be able to produce tea with an even more inviting aroma and a sweet, rounded flavor."
Different processing methods also make a difference to the quality of the teas. Like most other Chinese green tea, Longjing tea leaves are roasted early in the processing to stop the natural oxidation process. This means that pan-frying is an important step in producing the tea, which can nowadays be made either by hand or machine.
However, as Yu Jizhong explains, the traditional method of pan-frying tea leaves by hand can help create a unique taste that cannot be achieved in machine frying.
"I think hand-processed Longjing teas are better than those made by machines because there are many steps involved in frying tea leaves by hand, pressing, throwing, tossing and shaking them. Experienced masters know when to use the right technique according to the color, moisture and temperature of the leaves. However, increasing numbers of tea makers prefer to use machines to do all this because it's quicker and easier, and fewer young people are learning the traditional techniques."
To encourage more tea makers to pick up the traditional methods of hand processing Longjing tea, the Hangzhou local authority has initiated an evaluation system to recognize and promote tea makers who master these skills. The technique is also recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage in China.
Longjing tea is favored by people not only for its unique flavor and its cultural connotations, but also for its benefits to human health. Here is Yu Jizhong again.
"Longjing tea contains amino acids, vitamin C, and, like most finer Chinese green teas, it has one of the highest concentrations of catechins. The potent antioxidant elements it has can help prevent inflammation, heart disease and other chronic illnesses."
The fine green tea of Longjing is one of the "twin wonders" of Hangzhou. The other is the reputed magic water of Hupao Spring, or Tiger Running Spring. When two natural wonders come together, something very special happens. This belief is evidenced each day by the people lining Hupao Spring to fetch water to make their tea.
Drinking tea has always been an important part of Hangzhou tradition, and is deeply rooted in people's lives. The experience of sipping tea in the Imperial Tea Garden in Longjing Village can be the experience of a lifetime. Here, up in the green hills of the Village, you can sit amid the birdsong and chattering brooks. Rainy days have a special charm, when the rhythm of the falling rain accompanies nature's melody and adds to the sense of relaxation.
It's said that the literary artists of ancient China were inspired either by tea or by wine. Those who were fond of wine were said to write in a passionate and heroic style; those who preferred tea tended to be sentimental and romantic. In Zhejiang, you can discover that romantic spirit for yourself, enjoying a cup of imperial tea in a peaceful setting with good company.