Vol.154 卖不掉的奢侈品去哪了？

后疫情时期，奢侈品堪称是最快复苏的行业之一。产品价格屡创新高、上市公司志得意满，一切看起来都很完美——除了这些品牌越来越满的仓库之外。 此前很长一段时间里，奢侈品行业都信奉着一个基本的商业准则：这个行业的供给必须小于需求，供不应求会让更多人仰视品牌、并更狂热地喜欢她。但现在，不管是顶奢还是轻奢，平衡生产、库存和销售的关系，都将变得更加困难。 奢侈品集团们不是第一次遇到这种问题，不管是销售还是处理，他们都有丰富的实践经验。本期节目，我们就尝试介绍一些奢侈品行业面对库存问题时，或体面、或灰暗的处理方案。最后，再回到问题的起点——到底是谁造成了这个问题，是市场变了，还是品牌自己变了？ | 主播 | 肖文杰、约小亚 | 时间轴 | 01:36 快速复苏的奢侈品行业又遇到了麻烦 03:22 从财报中的“存货跌价准备”看库存问题 09:24 配货，可能是最体面的去库存方案 12:46 关于奥特莱斯的三个知识点 17:59 捐赠为什么不是奢侈品最好的终点站 21:27 奢侈品水货经销是意大利的幽灵经济 27:35 时尚化思路部分造就了奢侈品的库存困境 | 延伸资料 | BoF-AI, Outlets, Recycling: Can Luxury Solve Its Billion-Dollar Excess Inventory Problem? https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/sustainability/lvmh-kering-waste-overstock-leftover-billion-dollar-problem/ 《爱马仕为何没有库存烦恼？》 https://cn.fashionnetwork.com/news/shen-du---ai-ma-shi-wei-he-mei-you-ku-cun-fan-nao--,1376245.html The luxury problem that keeps piling up https://misstweed.com/articles/the-luxury-problem-that-keeps-piling-up 资本跑马圈地，品牌竞相布局：奥特莱斯一夜爆火？ | 棱镜 https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/i6mGvm1r0q3TcIY4zwnTcw 边角聊-《零售业专家陪你逛逛奥特莱斯》 https://www.xiaoyuzhoufm.com/episode/65e859b4eba53528f20bc37e WSJ-Luxury Stores Are Bursting With Unsold Stuff https://www.wsj.com/business/retail/luxury-outlets-sales-f43f3da0 Quartz-Are the “discounts” at luxury outlets a form of consumer fraud? https://qz.com/430680/are-the-discounts-at-luxury-outlets-a-form-of-consumer-fraud Burberry to stop destroying unsold merchandise https://www.retaildive.com/news/burberry-to-stop-destroying-unsold-merchandise/531834/ France to prohibit the destruction of unsold stock: who is going to pay for that? https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/france-to-prohibit-the-destruction-of-unsold-stock-who-is-going-to-pay-for-that/2019082644918 Vox-Why fashion brands destroy billions’ worth of their own merchandise every year https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2018/9/17/17852294/fashion-brands-burning-merchandise-burberry-nike-h-and-m Gucci的循环化愿景 https://equilibrium.gucci.com/zh-hk/guccis-circular-vision/ NSS Magazine-A BURSTING BUBBLE: WHAT IS THE PARALLEL MARKET OF LUXURY? https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/35052/a-bursting-bubble-what-is-the-parallel-market-of-luxury Quartz-One chart shows why Chinese tourists treat Europe as the world’s largest discount mall https://qz.com/960912/one-chart-shows-why-chinese-tourists-treat-europe-as-the-worlds-largest-discount-mall Reuters-Grey market has become a necessary evil for luxury watchmakers https://www.reuters.com/article/idUSKBN17E2E9/ BoF-Fashion’s Dirty Secret: Millions in Grey Market Sales https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/fashion-dirty-little-secret-grey-market-luxury-paralleling/ Forbes-Luxury Brands Are Overstocked, Leading To Discounts That Threaten Their Reputations https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2023/12/17/luxury-brands-are-overstocked-leading-to-discounts-that-threaten-their-reputations/?sh=403c3c4c287d | 后期制作 | 潘鑫 | 声音设计 | 刘三菜